The product of two teachers in Bejing who fell in love with Sichuan cooking and subsequently learned to cook it, the story could be a bit Hollywood had the food not been outstanding. Cooked from a one-man station in a room small enough to barely swing a wok, every dish is underpinned by complex chilli heat and perfumed spice. This is not for the faint-hearted. The menu changes daily but the fried chicken in house chilli is something of a cult classic. Good enough for Jay Rayner. Good enough for Tom Parker Bowles. Good enough for Barney.