Ignore anyone who calls Asador 44 a steakhouse. This is not a steakhouse: repeat, not a steakhouse or ‘steak joint’. Sure, the beef is truly remarkable- check those ex-dairy cuts, both Spanish and Welsh- in that ageing cabinet, but the clue is in the name, so you can eat sumptuously here as a vegetarian or vegan. Sides excel. Factor in a wonderful front of house team, specials etched on the glass partition between dining room and parilla, and the striking value of their ‘plato del dia’ lunch and you have something special. Tom Parker Bowles thinks so, anyway: ‘Asador 44 is scented with woodsmoke and happiness, a magnificent place where coals glow and spit…This is a lunch drenched in love, lust and unfiltered Spanish succour. It could be my restaurant of the year.’ He’s right: this is an absolute gem. And remember: not a steakhouse.