The city’s most accomplished Italian. Here, they keep choices judiciously short and focus on delivering polished dishes from local produce. Choices like gamberoni with chilli black pudding and ginger ketchup, or smoked haddock, leeks and curry risotto, mean Casanova is miles away from your typical recite-it-in-your-sleep trattoria. They feed you well here, teaming caramelized ox cheek with beef dripping crumb or pork belly with chorizo and Ibérico pig cheek and roast celeriac. Casanova is small but perfectly formed. Unlike Barney.