Settle in for bowl after bowl of slurpy goodness from James Chant’s whirlwind success story, a project born of obsessive attention to detail. Chicken karaage is great, the oyster mushroom version even better; but honestly anything dredged through that house Japanese curry mayo is unmissable. The individual bowls on offer will change but highlights include shiru-nashi mazesoba, the vividly-shaded tantanmen, and nikko shiō with its compelling dried fish broth. Eat up at the bar to watch the kitchen at work, or join a communal trestle table. It’s all very informal, while the cooking is fine-tuned to a rare extent. Just don’t blame us if this stuff dances around your head for a few days after.