Unauthentic and proud of it: that’s Sushi Life. There are no attempts to slavishly copy ‘the real thing’ because it feels like the kitchen is having fun with memories of travel. A hefty menu means ample room to explore, because you will be back. Barney’s tip: start with prawn dumplings or soft shell crab and dive headfirst into the roast duck cha han rice bowl. Dithering over your maki or nigiri choices? Ask for a mixed platter.