Flavour, fuss and flounce. Two of these are banned at The Humble Onion, one is celebrated. Guess which? For too long, Antonio Simone’s cooking at this cosy former coach house has been in the smug ‘If you know, you know’ category. It’s time that changed. The clever, unfussy cooking here satisfies in a way many fail to do. Barney’s favourites here include anything with ox or pig cheek fritter, cauliflower croquettes and pork belly or lamb breast with harissa: unpretentious, homely, hearty, flavour-rich cooking. And in Barney’s opinion the ‘Humble Chip’ is the finest classic chip in South Wales. Order them or we are blocking you.