Tanny Martinez carries on his father Benigno’s good work here in this iconic waterside building. You get two restaurants for the price of one: the bustle of the ground floor El Puerto and calmer La Marina upstairs. The idea is the same, though: pick your meal from huge glass cabinets displaying whole fish, hulking lobster and plump scallops, racks of Gower salt marsh lamb and thick sirloins. Cooking is unfussy and allows the produce to shine: it’s busy with good reason. The wine list is prodigious and it’s all served with a minimum of fuss and flounce with views across the Bay.