Sounds like it should be a grim, conveyor-belt-cursing, sticky-stool, faux Japanese chain right? Wrong. Its name may make it sound like the abandoned orphan of Itsu and Yo Sushi but Yuzu is anything but. It’s all wooden benches and shared table tops, sashimi that will have you questioning why you’ve ever bothered cooking fish and tempura that could transform any ordinary crudite into an elite snack. Yuzu is a quiet hero, a tiny corner of Chinatown doing the classics at a level that is simply exceptional.